Most people in Cuenca know of the Pumapungo Museum as the museum with the shrunken heads.  But did you know that they have a “backyard”?   A backyard of an incredible archaeological site, a garden, and an aviary.   The word Pumapungo means “Door of the Puma” and in the late 15th century was built by the Inca emperor Huayna Capac for mostly religious and political purposes.  The city then was called Tomebamba.  Pumapungo is the largest Inca ruins south of Ingapirca.  Here you will find foundation walls of many buildings (including a palace and a residence of a prominent leader), cemeteries and walkways.  Interestingly, the materials used for the buildings were mostly volcanic rocks.  The destruction of Tomebamba happened before the arrival of the Spanish, and the locals used many of the ruin stones for their homes and churches leaving these once magnificent structures in shambles.

Luckily, in the early 1980’s the Central Bank of Ecuador acquired the land and started a restoration process.  The ruins, divided into four areas, consist of The Palace Exterior, The Barracks, The House, and the Tunnel and Terrace.  As you walk around the grounds, there are signs in English that assist you in understanding the exhibits.  Walking down the terraced hill you will come to the 30-meter long tunnel that served as a mausoleum.  At the bottom of the hill, you will come to a huge garden that has traditional medicinal and food plants consisting of over 10,000 plants.   Along the path, you will find a series of irrigation canals and a ritual bath used for purifications.  Lastly, there is an aviary where you can see rescued native birds of Ecuador such as parrots, toucans, and various raptors.


There is no admission fee to the grounds, and we found that the park was open even though the museum was closed making for a pleasant 2-hour outdoor stroll.

About Keith

I'm an early retiree that now lives in Cuenca, Ecuador. I was an executive in Health Care Information Technology most of my career. My wife and I love to travel and have ventured all over the world. Now that we are retired, more adventures are on the horizon.

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